Induction Mods

Right time to have a look at the induction side of things, cooling the air getting into the engine, with a plenum isolator plate and heat reflective sleeving for the induction pipe, and helping it get air into the engine with new carbon fibre trumpets.

Heat reflective sleeving:
Easy enough to fit;
  1. Undo the clips around the AFM and plenum
  2. Unplug and remove the AFM (you don't have to do this but it makes life a lot easier)
  3. Now you can slip the sleeve all the way down the long induction pipe until you hit the front bulkhead
  4. I also covered the 90 degree bend in a couple of pieces of the heat sleeve, just to make sure
Trumpets and Isolator Plate:
This is a bit more involved, instructions to remove the plenum and trumpet base can be found here

A few pictures of the various stages;

You can see the various pipes and throttle pot removed from the plenum:


With the plenum removed; don't forget to remove the vacuum pipe to the FPR, it's at the back of the plenum:
Disconnect the vacuum hoses for the brake servo and carbon canister then remove the PAS reservoir (if fitted):


With the trumpet base removed; mine needed a bit of persuading, as you can also see, the use of kitchen towel to stop any crap getting into the engine:


Now to remove, clean and fit the new trumpets to the base.

Removing the trumpets can be a bit tricky, one method is to heat the trumpets and base in the oven for a while to melt the glue and they should just pop out, this can cause arguments with her indoors as she chokes of oil fumes!

So I played it safe and went for the brute force method, as I wouldn't be needing the trumpets in the future. I took a mid-sized hammer individually tapped the trumpets, on the side, so they started to rock in there slots. Eventually this broke the glue and they popped out one by one.

Cleaning the base was straight forward, degrease the thing using Gunk, and gently remove all the old glue with a Dremel, as you can see below it's a bit cleaner:


Now to fit the trumpets. Practice fit all the trumpets to the base before hand to make sure you know which way round they all go, hint: the trumpets meet on the straight edges:


Right now to prep the inlet manifold, this is just the process of removing all the old sealant from the mating surface:


Now to create an intake sandwich, on the inlet manifold a coating of red sealant then the t-spacer, another layer of sealant then the trumpet base. The base is then torqued down to 14-16 f/lb. I now reattached the vacuum pipes that lead to the front wing and the PAS reservoir.

Now to fit the plenum, putting sealant around the trumpet base, I squeezed the plenum between the last trumpet and the metal cover on the bulkhead. Remembering to reconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR beforehand.

Now to put the rest of the hoses and electrical connections back on; the stepper motor, the throttle pot, the dizzy vacuum advance, the breather hoses and the induction pipe.

Job done!

Does it start: YES....good start!

How does it drive? Well after getting the engine up to temperature I managed to get my right foot down, the car seems to pull a lot stronger mid to top range. On a rolling 2nd gear start it felt quicker up the speeds where I'd be saying goodbye to my license, glad I was on a private road.
Update: Note to self; when the roads are ever so slightly damp and you are at accelerating in 3rd gear, hitting around 3500 to 4500 revs the rear tyres (which have LOADS of tread) will spin!!!! :)

When I got back I got the bonnet up and the plenum was very cool to the touch, IIRC I wouldn't have been able to touch it before! Let's face it the bonnet stay was burning my hand when I put it in place!! I also felt as far as I could under the heat reflective sleeving on the induction pipe and the pipe was not as hot as it was previously

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Dashboard Replacement

Image
During this summer the veneer on the dashboard started to crack a bit more, so I decided to replace it with a Leven alloy item. After reading up on www.chimaerapages.com and using Steve Heaths bible I set off removing the old dash and putting the new shiny one in...Here's a bolt by bolt guide on how I completed it- Dash top removal: Unscrew the passenger "glove box" under the dash Find and remove the three elusive bolts that hold the dash top on Now try and move the dash top into a position where you can get the right hand side bolt to come free, this was completed with a lot of swearing and sweating Dashboard removal: Work your way along the dials and switches removing them from the old dash one-by-one and reconnecting them separated from the dash Unscrew the screws that hold the heater controls to the dash bottom, keep hold of the bolts that are used as spacers between the controls and the dash bottom Now you should be able to lift the old dashboard from the dash bottom...
Read more

Roll Bar and Harness

Image
Roll Bar Fitting I took delivery of a TR Lane Fabrications roll bar a while back now and finally got around to fitting it this spring. Fitting was eventful as with anything that's made to fit handmade motors and is not fabricated on site... The first step was to find the seat belt anchor points on the chassis, with the roll bar came a treasure map to locate these, so it was just a matter of drilling a few holes and removing the glass fibre around the anchor points. This is a bit of a pain due to the lack of space behind the seats but with a bit of patience and test fitting big enough holes where created. The bottom of the roll bar is secured behind the seats by the bolts that holds the body to the outriggers, so it's a matter of carefully pulling up the carpet and removing these. Bolting the roll bar in place was aided by the use of a ratchet strap as it just wasn't the correct size to fit the car. I firstly loosely bolted the bottom of the roll bar in place... Then usin...
Read more

Mod-Wise Boot Opening and Light Kit

Image
Well another day and another Mod-Wise kit to fit, after this I should have the ability to open the boot from the outside, without having to put the keys in the ignition and press the button under the dashboard, and I should be able to see in the boot at night!! Here's how I went about it: Fitting the relay to the boot actuator. This was a matter of pulling up the carpet in the boot to the right hand side of the boot catch (as you look at the car from the rear) and finding the wires that feed the boot latch actuator, here are mine (picture taken from inside the boot looking backwards, the light pod is the off-side rear): Now attach the wires with the supplied clips, and I've also taped the relays in place with good old duck tape! Now it's a matter of feeding the door micro-switch and it's wire around the boot, again I used little strips of duck tape to keep it in place, and fed the switch over the near side wheel arch and through to the passenger door lock actuator. This...
Read more