During this summer the veneer on the dashboard started to crack a bit more, so I decided to replace it with a Leven alloy item. After reading up on www.chimaerapages.com and using Steve Heaths bible I set off removing the old dash and putting the new shiny one in...Here's a bolt by bolt guide on how I completed it- Dash top removal: Unscrew the passenger "glove box" under the dash Find and remove the three elusive bolts that hold the dash top on Now try and move the dash top into a position where you can get the right hand side bolt to come free, this was completed with a lot of swearing and sweating Dashboard removal: Work your way along the dials and switches removing them from the old dash one-by-one and reconnecting them separated from the dash Unscrew the screws that hold the heater controls to the dash bottom, keep hold of the bolts that are used as spacers between the controls and the dash bottom Now you should be able to lift the old dashboard from the dash bottom...
Well another day and another Mod-Wise kit to fit, after this I should have the ability to open the boot from the outside, without having to put the keys in the ignition and press the button under the dashboard, and I should be able to see in the boot at night!! Here's how I went about it: Fitting the relay to the boot actuator. This was a matter of pulling up the carpet in the boot to the right hand side of the boot catch (as you look at the car from the rear) and finding the wires that feed the boot latch actuator, here are mine (picture taken from inside the boot looking backwards, the light pod is the off-side rear): Now attach the wires with the supplied clips, and I've also taped the relays in place with good old duck tape! Now it's a matter of feeding the door micro-switch and it's wire around the boot, again I used little strips of duck tape to keep it in place, and fed the switch over the near side wheel arch and through to the passenger door lock actuator. This...
Right time to have a look at the induction side of things, cooling the air getting into the engine, with a plenum isolator plate and heat reflective sleeving for the induction pipe, and helping it get air into the engine with new carbon fibre trumpets. Heat reflective sleeving: Easy enough to fit; Undo the clips around the AFM and plenum Unplug and remove the AFM (you don't have to do this but it makes life a lot easier) Now you can slip the sleeve all the way down the long induction pipe until you hit the front bulkhead I also covered the 90 degree bend in a couple of pieces of the heat sleeve, just to make sure Trumpets and Isolator Plate: This is a bit more involved, instructions to remove the plenum and trumpet base can be found here A few pictures of the various stages; You can see the various pipes and throttle pot removed from the plenum: With the plenum removed; don't forget to remove the vacuum pipe to the FPR, it's at the back of the plenum: Disconnect the vacuum ...
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